Specialty selling is an area that has meant returns for those who've emphasized it and gone beyond simply putting a few names and pictures on a drink card. In a recent discussion Peter Brodeaux, president and chief executive officer of Sazerax Co. in New Orleans, argued that most bars and restaurants still play "guess what we have" with consumers.
"If the idea of specialty drinking is happy hours, Sunday champayne brunches, table tents and waitresses with discount drinks," Bordeaux contended, "you are living in the past. Specialty retailing today," he stressed, is "Tiffany and Benetton, not the local dress shop, hardware store or hobby house."
Instead of marching in step with the times, the Sazerac chief executive officer said the on-premises industry is guilty of sellign down rather than up. "When your wife shops for clothes," he observed, "salespersons target for profits by showing the more expensive dresses first. Bartenders, waiters and waitresses should be trained in the same way, to sell the drinks that yield a better return."
Bordeaux envisions a bar or restaurant of the future where customers are presented with a directory of drinks to accompany their food menu. His drinks directory would list, for example, all of the vodkas carried by the house, including their coutry of origin. It woiuld highlight specialty drinks made with name brands, such as Absolut and Stoli. That kind of selling information, he stressed, would translated into more volume and profits on call drinks rather than on standard pour.
For those who don't buy the drinks directory idea, he suggested extending wine list to cover major spirits, such as Scotch and bourbon, and beer, accompanied by tasting notes for the better labels. "How else," Bordeaux demanded, "is a customer to know that you offer Johnny Walker Blue label, Glenlivet 18 or Speyside 21-Years-Old?"
The answer to that question, of course, is an educated, outgoing bartender, in the style of those Henderson recruited for the Omni in Baltimore.
Not all suppliers are so gloomy about the state of on-premises salesmanship as Bordeaux, and some perceive an improvement in bartender skills. Robert Cutone, marketing manager for single malts and PInch Scotch at Schieffelin & Somerset Co. in New York, sees a return of skilled, professional bartenders in restaurants and bars.
"There is a growing realization," Cutone averred, "that if they don't know it, they can't sell it. I walk into a bar today, and I see more bartenders talking product with customers. The industry," he said, "has become more education-oriented and is producing trained bartenders who can move their customers into premium brands."
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